Abu Simbel – not to be missed !

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel.

In the 1960s the new High Dam was built at Aswan which resulted in a build-up of water which threatened to engulf the monuments along its Nubian shores. In a dramatic race against time UNESCO began a US$40 million rescue operation in 1964, the like of which had never been seen before. In the incredible salvage operation the temples were dismantled and cut up into manageable-sized blocks, then painstakingly reconstructed 65m higher than the original site, away from the dangers of the encroaching water. Inside a specially constructed mountain, two gigantic reinforced concrete domes protect the rebuilt temples.

Lake Nasser from Aswan High Dam

The best description of the Temple comes from UNESCO`s documentation.

“Abu Simbel is a temple built by Ramesses II in ancient Nubia; he chose to build the temple dedicated to himself on the site where there were two grottoes consecrated to the cult of the local divinities. The sovereign in this way reaffirmed the fact that Nubia belonged to the Egyptian Empire. The Great Temple has four colossal statues carved out of the living rock, fastened to the cliff wall, which depict Ramesses II, seated with the double crown of Lower and Upper Egypt. Standing between and on either side of the pharaoh’s legs were depicted princes, princesses and Queen Nefertari, much smaller in size and standing erect.

Not far off stands the Little Temple dedicated to the Goddess Hathor in memory of the king’s wife Nefertari, who was later venerated as the goddess of love and fertility. In the facade six statues are carved in the rock. They represent the pharaoh and his wife, assimilated to the divinity and therefore depicted with the divinity’s attributes, a Sun disk between the horns of a cow.

The interior is subdivided into a hall supported by pillars decorated with reliefs depicting the goddess, a vestibule with side rooms, and the sanctuary, which contained the statue of a goddess in the form of a cow. The interior walls are decorated with magnificent reliefs showing the presentation of offerings and festive processions in honour of the pharaoh and his wife.”

The best way to get to Abu Simbel is from Aswan and the best way to get to Aswan is on Nile cruise. Any 7 night itinerary will allow you time to visit the Temple.

The journey starts with an early morning wake up call at around 3am. Armed with your pillow and a breakfast box your guide will direct you onto one of the waiting coaches to begin the journey south through the desert.

The journey is long, the pillow doesn`t help much and the breakfast box leaves a lot to be desired, but when you arrive you will see why this has all been so worth it. You will also appreciate why it has been necessary to start so early as the heat is immense on arrival, almost unbearable by the time you leave around 1030 am.

As you walk down the path and around the artificially constructed mountain  to see the  colossal statues for the first time you will be absolutely astounded. The fact that this monument has also been moved makes it even more remarkable.

Inside the the Temple is also remarkable. Here again is UNESCO`s description.

“The temple faces east, and Re-Horakhty, one manifestation of the Sun God, is shown inside the niche directly above the entrance. The alignment of the temple is such that twice a year the Sun’s rays reach into the innermost sanctuary to illuminate the seated statues of Ptah, Amun-Re, Ramesses II and Re-Horakhty. The facade is crowned by a row of statues of baboons, considered to be the protectors of water. Inside the temple there is a great hall, whose ceiling is supported by eight colossal pillars in the shape of statues of the king, a smaller hall with simple pillars, a vestibule and a sanctuary. There are reliefs on the walls of the halls in which Ramesses is depicted in different ways but always fighting against his enemies.”

The fact that the sun`s rays shine directly on Ramses II’s statues only two days out of each year Oct 22 and Feb 22,  his birthday and his coronation day, is amazing in itself.

The journey home through the desert begins, complete with mirages along the way. You arrive back on board the cruise boat tired but it has been so worth it as you will never see anything like this again.

If you ever have the chance to make this unforgettable journey please do, you will not be disappointed.