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One way to do Buenos Aires - Part One

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    One way to do Buenos Aires - Part One

    Continuing my series of 'One way to do...' this edition features Buenos Aires.

    Armed with our trusty guide book, my wife and I were determined to get the most from this fascinating city...

    Our hotel, the NH City and Tower...


    ...was ideally placed on the edge of the lively Bohemian district of San Telmo, within five minutes walking distance of the Plaza de Mayo.

    One of the great Buenos Aires Plazas and is surrounded by many famous Buenos Aires buildings, the most prominent being the palatial mansion officially known as 'Casa de Gobierno': the Executive Mansion and Office of the President of Argentina...

    ...and the 'Piraide de Mayo',

    ...dedicated to the revolutionaries of 1810, who orchestrated Argentina's independence.
    A short distance from the Plaza de Mayo is the Barrio (District) of Puerto Madero, a redeveloped old port area, the old warehouses now converted to Restaurants, shops and offices...

    It was here we got our first glimpse of the many street performances of the Argentinian Tango...

    Buenos Aires is renowned for these street performances and, as lovers of the Tango ourselves, we loved every performance we saw. It was to one of theses restaurants that we were to return for our first taste of Argentinian steak with the atmosphere to match.

    Continuing along the waterfront towards the district of Retiro, our next point of interest was also our landmark guide, the tower of 'The Torre de los Ingleses'...

    A gift from the local British community to the city in commemoration of the Centennial of the 1810 Revolution, it was renamed after the Falklands War as the 'Torre Monumental'.

    It has a central position in the Plaza San Martín, on whose periphery is the Estación Retiro. The French style station building was designed by the British architects Eustace L. Conder, Roger Conder and Sydney G. Follet together with the engineer Reginald Reynolds. Building began in June 1909 and the station was opened on 1 August 1915. The steel structure for the building was made in Liverpool and re-assembled in Argentina. Though fully operational it is also a National Monument....

    There are two other monuments in the same Plaza, that of the Plaza's namesake, José de San Martín...

    ...as well as the Monument for the fallen in the Falklands War...

    Leaving the Retiro District and crossing into that of Recoleta, we were now heading for one of our prime target visits.

    At this point I would add that Buenos Aires is a city of many attributes none more so than its rich architecture. It is certainly very negotiable on foot and only crossing between San Telmo and La Boca, on our second day, could beat our walk through the streets of Recoleta.

    We arrived at La Recoleta Cemetery, a 14 acre site containing 4691 vaults, all above ground, of which 94 have been declared National Historical Monuments: including those of Eva Peron, Presidents of Argentina, the founder of the Argentine Navy and a granddaughter of Napoleon...

    The Entrance to La Recoleta Cemetery

    The tomb of the First lady, Eva Peron...

    I attach the Wikipedia link for those wishing to see examples of the tombs, an amazing variety of ostentatious remembrance...


    Heading back to our hotel we took a route through the Barrio of Monserrat that gave us the opportunity to take in Argentine Congress on the Avenida de Mayo

    and on the same Avenue the Palacio Barolo...

    A richly symbolic building ,the basic design, and eclectic style, was in accordance with the cosmology of Dante's 'Divine Comedy's. Indeed, the lighthouse at the top of the building can be seen all the way from Montevideo, Uruguay.

    No visit to Buenos Aires would be complete without a walk along Avenida 9 de Julio with its landmark Obelisco de Buenos Aires a national monument and icon of Buenos Aires. It was built to commemorate the fourth centenary of the city's foundation...

    ...and only a stone's throw away, The Teatro Colón , the main opera house in Buenos Aires, acoustically considered to be amongst the five best concert venues in the world...

    That completes Part 1 of this thread and I hope it shows just what can be achieved in one day. This was our chosen route because we had planned the monuments and architecture that Buenos Aires is famous for as one package. I hopefully intend another two parts, one to cover the colourful and atmospheric tango dance areas of San Telmo and La Boca: and one to illustrate the evening transformations that take place in this vibrant city.

    Can Solent Richard tango?...

    You bet he can but it does take two.

    Wow, what a fabulous lead in – thanks for that first taster!
    Lancashire Cunarder


      I love Buenos Aires - you have brought back happy memories for me. I have never seen or tasted steak like it, in fact one steak would do the two of you, ours was like a joint of beef. We went to the Tango show which was great, the only thing was the singers sang songs, which of course we didn't recognise, and were a bit boring. Recoleta Cemetery is very interesting but I was surprised Eva Peron's tomb was so insignificant, you could have walked past and not noticed it. She is buried in the Duarte family vault. Our hotel was near the Falklands War Memorial. The soldiers on guard looked so young. Really looking forward to your next review as La Boca is an eye opener - it is like being in a 1940's film set. Keep writing Solent Richard and more photos please. LINDA
      Greenaway, Cheshire


        A great post and very timely for me. We have just booked a cruise for November when we will have 3 days in a Hotel in Buenos Aires before we fly home. I have just started researching what we will do so this will be a great help. We have never been to South America before and know almost nothing about the area. We also go to quite a few places in Brazil. Our hotel in BA is quite close to the cemetery; is this a good location for getting around? Looking forward to your review of the tango dance area. We have not mastered the dance yet but hoping we will be able to have some lessons on the 6 sea days crossing the Atlantic.


          Now come on folks, be honest - doesn't he look cute on that last photo!!!!!!

          Wish I could dance like that ...



            Thanks Richard for the amazing photos and the commentary is spot on, it took me back to those lovely wide avenues and great architecture, as for the cemetery , it reminded me of a city all those tombs complete with coffins, windows and furniture it gave me the willies, I can tell you
            The tango! what can I say you certainly look the part Richard!! CG
            Last edited by cornish girl, falmouth; 24th March 2013, 05:40 AM.


              Awesome review and very timely as we only booked a cruise sailing from BA next February two weeks ago.

              Can't wait for next instalment. Must get that guide book as well.


                Originally posted by Mitchell Derby, Derby View Post
                Now come on folks, be honest - doesn't he look cute on that last photo!!!!!!

                Wish I could dance like that ...


                Yes he does look cute but is he concentrating on learning the Tango or the lovely girl partner ha ha. LINDA
                Greenaway, Cheshire


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