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AUSTRALIA

The marine wonderland of the Great Barrier Reef, a World Heritage site off the northeast coast of Australia, is the earth’s largest living coral reef – it actually consists  of more than 2,800 individual coral reefs. It is visited by around 70 local Australian boutique ship operators, who mostly offer 1- to 4-night cruises to the reefs and Whitsunday Islands. The area is excellent for scuba diving and snorkelers.

June through September is humpback whale-watching season; the Reef shelters the young whales while the adults nurture them in the shallow waters. Note that the Australian government levies an environmental charge of A$5 on everyone over four years of age visiting the Great Barrier Reef and its environs.

NORWAY

There is year-round coastal cruising along the shores of Norway to the Land of the Midnight Sun aboard the ships of the Hurtigruten Group, formerly known as Norwegian Coastal Voyages. The fleet consists of small, comfortable, working express coastal packet steamers and contemporary cruise vessels that deliver mail, small packaged goods, and foodstuffs, and take passengers, to the communities spread on the shoreline.

Invariably dubbed “the world’s most beautiful voyage.” this is a 1,250-mile (2,000-km) journey from Bergen in Norway to Kirkenes, close to the Russian border (half of which is north of the Arctic Circle) and takes 12 days. The service started in 1893, and the name Hurtigruten – meaning “fast route” – reflects the fact that this coastal express was once the most reliable communication link between southern Norway and its remote north. Today the company carries more than 300,000 passengers a year.  It’s a good way to meet Norwegians, who treat the service like a bus.

You can join it at any of the 34 ports of call and stay as long as you wish because the vessels, being working ships, sail every day of the year. At the height of summer, north of the Arctic Circle, there are 24 hours of daylight, and between November and February the northern lights create spectacular arcs across the sky. Some specialist voyages are aimed at birdwatchers and others include onboard concerts and lectures celebrating the work of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.

The ships can accommodate between 144 and 652 passengers. The newest ships have an elevator that can accommodate a wheelchair passenger, but otherwise, they are fairly plain and basic, practical vessels, with food that is more bistro than restaurant. Note that alcohol prices are extremely high, as they are throughout Norway, and that the currency is the Norwegian krone.

Archipelago hopping can be done along Sweden’s eastern coast, too, by sailing in the daytime and staying overnight in one of the many small hotels. One vessel sails from Norrtalje, north of Stockholm, to Oskarshamn, near the Baltic island of Öland, right through the spectacular Swedish archipelago. Point-to-point coastal transportation between neighboring countries, major cities, and commercial centers is big business in Northern Europe.

The Hurtigruten Group also operates utilitarian ships for expedition-style cruising in the Arctic, Antarctic, and Greenland.

SCOTLAND

The fishing town of Oban, two hours west of Glasgow by road, perhaps seems an unlikely point to start a cruise, but it is the base for one of the world’s finest cruise experiences. Hebridean Princess is a little gem, with Laura Ashley-style interiors – homely enough to have been chartered by Queen Elizabeth II for a family-only celebration of her 80th birthday in 2006. The food is great, and includes Scottish beef, local seafood and seasonal vegetables. There’s fine personal service.

This ship, owned by Hebridean Island Cruises, carries up to 49 passengers around some of Scotland’s most magnificent coastline and islands. If you cruise from Oban, you can be met at Glasgow airport or rail station and taken to the ship by motor coach. Take lots of warm clothing, however (layers are best), as the weather can be flexible and often unkind.

As an alternative, there’s Lord of the Glens, operated by Magna Carta Steamship Company and accommodating 54 passengers. It’s another treat for small ship lovers, cruising in style through Scotland’s lakes and canals. Some 7- and 10-night high-season sailings are accompanied by historians and guest lecturers.

NORTH AMERICA

Coastal cruise ships flying the American flag offer a complete change of style from the large resort cruise ships. They are American-owned and American-crewed, and informality is the order of the day. Because of their US registry, they can start from and return to a US port without being required by the Passenger Vessel Services Act to call at a foreign port along the way – which a foreign-flagged cruise ship must do.

Accommodating up to 150 passengers, the ships are more like private family af fairs, and are rarely out of sight of land. These cruises are low-key, low pace, and not for active, adventurous types. Their operators seek out lesser-known areas, offering in-depth visits to destinations inaccessible to larger ships, both along the eastern and western seaboards of the USA, including Alaska.

Most passengers are over 60, and many over 70. They may prefer not to fly, and wherever possible drive or take a train to join their ship. During the summer, you might see a couple of children on board, but in general small kids are not allowed. There are no facilities for them, and no staff to look after them.

Destinations: Eastern US and Canadian seaboard cruises include the St. Lawrence River, Atlantic Coastal Waterways, New England (good for fall cruises), Cape Cod and the Islands (and Cape Cod Canal), the Great Lakes (and Welland Canal), the Colonial Deep South, and Florida waterways.

Western seaboard cruises cover Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, California Wine Country, and Baja California/Sea of Cortés. Cruises focus on historically-relevant destinations, nature and wildlife spotting, and coastal viewing. On some cruises, these boutique ships can dock adjacent to a town, allowing easy access on foot.

The ships: These “D-class” vessels are less than 2,500 tons, and are subject neither to bureaucratic regulations nor to union rules. They are restricted to cruising no more than 20 miles (32 km) offshore, at a comfortable 12 knots (13.8mph). Public room facilities are limited. Because the vessels are American-­registered, there is no casino. They really are ultra-casual, no-frills ships with the most basic of facilities, no swimming pools, little artwork, and no glitz in interior decor. They usually have three or four decks and, except for the ships of American Cruise Lines, no elevator. Stairs can be steep and are not recommended for people with walking difficulties. Because of this, some ships have an electric chair-lift on indoor or outdoor stairways.

Cabins: Accommodation is in outside-view cabins, some of which open directly onto a walking deck – inconvenient when it rains. Each has a picture window and small bathroom. They are small and basic, with very limited closet space – perhaps just a curtain across a space with a hanging rod for clothes. Many do not have a television or telephone. There’s no room service, and you may have to turn your own bed down. Cabins are closer to the engines and generators than aboard the large resort ships, so generator humming noises can be disturbing at night. The quietest cabins are at the ship’s bows – although there could be noise if the ship is equipped with a bow thruster – and most cruising is done in the early morning so that passengers can sleep better at night.

Tall passengers should note that the overall length of beds rarely exceeds 6 ft (1.82 meters). While soap is provided, it’s best to bring your own shampoo, conditioner, and other personal toiletries. American Canadian Caribbean Line’s ships do not have cabin keys

Although some of the older ships are really basic, the latest ones, particularly those of American Cruise Lines, are very comfortable. Because they are not classified for open-water cruising, though, they don’t have to conform to the same rigorous shipbuilding standards that larger ocean-going cruise ships do. You may find that hot and cold water lines run close to each other in your bathroom, thus delivering neither really hot nor really cold water. Sound insulation could be almost non-existent.

Activities: The principal evening event is dinner in the dining room, which accommodates all passengers at once. This can be a family-style affair, with passengers at long tables, and the food passed around.

The cuisine is decidedly American, with fresh local specialties featured. However, menus aboard the ships of American Canadian Caribbean Cruise Line and Cruise West are very limited, while those aboard the ships of American Cruise Lines offer slightly more variety, including seasonal items. You’ll probably be asked in the morning to choose which of two main courses you would like for dinner.

Evening entertainment consists mainly of after-dinner conversation. Most vessels are in port during the time, so you can easily go ashore for the local nightlife, although most passengers simply go to bed early.

If you’ve been on a large resort ship, you’ll know how dreary standing in long lines waiting to get back on board and go through the security check at every port  can be. However, passengers aboard the small coastal ships sometimes aren’t asked to show their ID cards when rejoining a ship, because gangway staff recognize them. Another advantage is that you won’t get seasick because these ships sail mostly in sheltered waters and inshore bays, inlets and rivers.

The cost: This kind of cruising is expensive, with an average daily rate of around $400– $800 a person. Suggested gratuities are high – typically about $125 per person, per 7-day cruise – but they are at least shared by all the personnel on board.  

COASTAL CRUISE LINES IN NORTH AMERICA

There are five cruise companies: American Canadian Caribbean Line, American Cruise Lines, American Safari Cruises, Cruise West, and Lindblad Expeditions.

What differentiates them? American Cruise Lines and American Safari Cruises provide better food and service than the others. American Cruise Lines’ ships have larger cabins, and more public rooms. Drinks are included aboard the ships of American Cruise Lines only. American Canadian Caribbean Line and American Cruise Lines operate on the USA’s east coast; American Safari Cruises and Lindblad Expeditions operate on the USA’s west coast and Alaska.

Pearl Seas Cruises, a new company under the same ownership as American Cruise Lines, introduced its first new ship in 2009. Considerably larger than those of the other lines, it accommodates 210 passengers, has an all-American registry and crew, is certified for oceangoing voyages, has more lounges and facilities and much larger cabins, and aspires to the standards set by international boutique ships. Itineraries include cruises around Newfoundland, the Caribbean and Central America. 

Berlitz Guide © Apa Publishing 2010