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Forget Lisbon - let's go on to Manchester

35 of 36 people found this review informative
 
Reviewed By: Stanbury, Tunbridge Wells on 11th Oct 2011
Cruise Line: Voyages of Discovery Times cruised before: 1-2
Cruise Ship: MV Discovery Sailed: September, 2011
Destination: Iberia Age: 56-65
Cabin: Outside
My wife and I have cruised twice before and thoroughly enjoyed our first cruise on Discovery in September 2010. We were glad to have the opportunity to rejoin this happy vessel a year later for the nine-day ‘European Connoisseur’ cruise from Harwich to Lisbon. When we booked, the discounted price for a guaranteed outside cabin was a further incentive and we were subsequently upgraded to a forward cabin on Bali deck, port side. We took advantage of the free coach transfer from Gatwick and, after an easy run on quiet Sunday roads, arrived at Harwich in plenty of time for check-in and boarding at midday, a straightforward process. Our twin-bedded cabin was as expected, compact but comfortable and very well looked after by our cheerful steward, Edwin. After a leisurely and filling lunch in the Lido buffet, we were all set for sail-away at 16.00.

We were pleased to find that little had changed on Discovery during our year’s absence, although there were some newcomers within the (mostly European) management. There have been a few improvements in the décor and furniture and the boat is clean and tidy throughout. However, I understand that a three-month refit is imminent, which should make Discovery (which was built in 1971) smart for a number of years yet, to the relief of its genial master, John Brocklehurst, who is clearly fond of his charge. The same seems to be true of the Filipino stewards, waiters and catering staff, whose unfailingly friendly and attentive service did so much to keep everyone in a good mood. They work hard but all seem happy and it was good to see some familiar and welcoming faces again, notably head waiter Santé, who always seemed to be on duty, supervising with quiet efficiency. Tipping is not expected (the fare is inclusive) but is both justified and appreciated on an individual reward basis – which is as it should be.

We had been allocated first sitting for dinner, as requested, and spent a very convivial time throughout the cruise with the two other couples on our table, ably looked after by waiters Jason and Rupert. The food in the Seven Continents restaurant was, as elsewhere in Discovery, quite varied but never alien, and always appetising and well-cooked and served. We did however notice a few economies since last year, such as the absence of a roast joint at lunchtime, albeit not a preference for many passengers. We took the buffet breakfast and lunch in the Lido each day. On our second night, we ate dinner in the Yacht Club (having failed to get a reservation on our previous cruise) in company with another couple we had met and all enjoyed an excellent, unhurried meal. One will certainly not starve on Discovery; if three main meals a day are insufficient, the afternoon tea and tasty late snacks at 11pm provide a top-up. Drinks are reasonably priced (on a par with UK pubs) and there is no service charge. The on-board currency is sterling.

Discovery accommodates some 650 passengers and was full on our cruise. Apart from a few from the Commonwealth, almost all were British and aged between 50 and 80. Many were previous Discovery cruisers, including one American gent who had completed no fewer than 38 cruises and was now on board for some nine months continuously. Everyone seemed friendly and approachable. With the exception of our one formal night (when at least 60% of the men wore their DJs, with the rest in a dark suit or blazer), the evening dress code was ‘smart casual’ and was suitably observed – by both sexes.

Although it kept dry, we endured a certain amount of turbulence from strong winds, despite keeping fairly close to the Atlantic coast as we proceeded south. Some passengers suffered sea-sickness and my wife was a little disappointed when the deadlights (portholes) on the cabin were sealed on our first and last nights, thus negating the advantage of an outside cabin. The weather was not too warm for the first few days (but improved once we were in Spain) and most passengers made good use of the comfortable seating inside throughout the boat. The outside facilities are somewhat limited: two small Jacuzzis and a small swimming pool aft with a reasonable number of sun-loungers nearby and on the promenade deck each side. As was the case last year, the small pool inside the Lido Buffet was out of use. There is a small but well-stocked library and films are shown on the TV and in the Discovery Theatre. Live entertainment mostly takes place in the comfortable Carousel or Discovery Lounges.

In addition to quoits etc and a quiz in the afternoon and evening (win a Discovery pen!), the main daytime activity was provided by three guest lecturers. Christopher Walton described each port we were to visit, its history and attractions. His talks did however concentrate rather too much on background history and trivia and usually failed to give sufficient information to those (like ourselves) wishing to explore independently of organised excursions. Dr David Cross provided an interesting and informative insight into various art subjects relevant to our itinerary, ably demonstrating that most art is inevitably a matter of personal taste. Group Captain David Greenway entertained us with his insider accounts of flying with most of the Royal Family, and told a number of amusing jokes and anecdotes, mostly relating to the Services.

Evening entertainment was quite polished and went down well. It was presided over by Alexandra Minns, the Cruise Director, and her assistant, Shawn. We enjoyed the three cabarets provided by the energetic resident artistes (three girls and two boys), Shawn’s singing, a Filipino Folkloric Show (very professionally mounted by talented crew members), and two very professional concerts: big-band music from the resident five-piece Discovery Orchestra and classical from the Discovery Strings, a Romanian trio. Music for dancing was provided by the Orchestra and the trio and also by the Coral Duo. .

Our first port of call was Rouen, halfway up the Seine, reached after lunch on the second day, where we remained until 17.30 on the third day. Although the historic town was interesting, it was a long walk from our berth and we felt that the stay was too protracted and largely geared to the several wide-ranging excursions. In my view, those of us who live in the southern part of England can enjoy this part of France more effectively by taking a day or weekend trip by car or Eurostar. After a night-time return down the Seine and a full day and night at sea, we reached La Rochelle (on day 5) for an all-too-brief afternoon visit, spoiled for the majority of non-excursion passengers by a totally inadequate shuttle bus facility (at a fare of £5), which allowed little more than an hour in the pleasant town. There were many complaints and fares were refunded on request.

Day 6 found us in Spain, at Bilbao for a long morning. The shuttle bus (essential to access the busy town, some distance from the port area and notable for its Guggenheim Museum) was provided free by the port authority and worked well enough, although some had to wait an hour for the next outward trip. We had the whole of day 7 at La Coruna, a compact town with a historic lighthouse, easily explored on foot from the boat. On into Portugal, we spent our last full day berthed at the port of Leixoes, a very quiet town on a Sunday. However, the historic and bustling city of Porto was easily reached by comfortable ‘metro’ (think Croydon Tramlink) and well worth visiting. Our final destination was Lisbon, reached at breakfast time on day 9.

We did not take any of the organised excursions, preferring as usual to do our own thing and explore locally for a few hours at our own pace. The other passengers’ reports on excursions were mixed: most trips were considered excessively expensive and some were spoilt by poor arrangements or guides. Alas, this seems to be the norm regardless of the cruise.

We thoroughly enjoyed almost every aspect of the time spent on board and were sorry to leave, envious of those staying on for the next leg into the Med and beyond. However, we were a little disappointed with the rather ‘busy’ itinerary and the restrictions imposed by the berthing arrangements and timings and the poorly-managed shuttle buses. Unfortunately, the cruise came to an inglorious end in Lisbon, which we had no time to explore – although we had done this on our previous cruise. When we booked the cruise, our return flight was scheduled for mid-evening, allowing a fair time in Lisbon. However, the booking confirmation showed new arrangements with an early afternoon Monarch charter flight – information which I understand was not provided to a number of the early bookers until much nearer the departure date. We could do nothing in Lisbon but wait on board for our mid-morning coach transfer to the airport, which is when things started to go wrong. We were then told that, for Monarch’s ‘operational convenience’ in aircraft positioning, our flight would go to Gatwick via Manchester, instead of direct. Naturally, this last-minute change caused some two-thirds of the departing passengers to have to re-arrange their onward UK travel to allow for an anticipated arrival delayed by around three hours. However, there was a further problem in that the check-in facilities at the vast airport proved woefully inadequate and we took off some 80 minutes late. After being obliged to disembark at Manchester (merely in order to go through UK security, a protracted and intrusive process, especially for the less able), we all re-boarded the same plane and reached Gatwick about four-and-a-half hours later than scheduled and far from happy. There was scant apology from Monarch (and not even a free drink to compensate) and I have yet to be told why the airline’s convenience should override its contractual obligations to the charterer or the reasonable expectations and convenience of 200 passengers. Voyages of Discovery is well aware of the issue but a proper explanation is still awaited; it must not forget that a significant number of its potentially repeat customers were badly inconvenienced on this occasion.

Snags aside, we hope to cruise again on Discovery and recommend it to those who would like a comfortable and civilised trip in convivial adult company, well looked-after but never overwhelmed. Just don’t all come at once!
Quality of Food5
The food everywhere was of a good quality, plentiful and well presented. We enjoyed it all but had to learn to pace ourselves!
Entertainment4
All the entertainers were energetic and professional and seemed well-received. The crew's Filipino-themed show was very memorable.
Shore Excursionsn/a
We did not take any excursions but explored locally by ourselves as the time available onshore allowed. Access to the towns was somewhat hampered by our berthing locations and unhelpful shuttle arrangements. Those passengers who went on excursions reported somewhat mixed experiences.
Staff5
All the officers and crew were approachable, friendly and obliging; they worked hard and all deserve praise.
Children's Facilitiesn/a
No children on board and no special facilities for them.
Onboard Activities3
Generally good lectures (well-attended), occasional games (quoits, quiz etc), TV and films. Most passengers were happy to relax and read or chat. A number of bridge players were aboard and had their regular organised sessions and lectures.
Cabins4
Our outside twin-bedded cabin was comfortable and the facilities (including bathroom) were fine; all was kept immaculate by our steward. Larger beds would, however, be an improvement.
Overall Rating4
35 of 36 people found this review informative
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Question by Smthers, Preston (15 Jan 12 16:47) about this REVIEW
When you say that the age range is 50 to 80, as a 57 year old, would I feel like a young person in an old folks home? Or are there a good number of passengers down the 50 to 65 end of this range?
Answer by Stanbury, TUNBRIDGE WELLS (15 Jan 12 23:07) to a QUESTION by Smthers (15 Jan 12 16:47)
At the time of the cruise, I was 62 and my wife 53. There were lots of couples around our ages and almost everyone older was young at heart, active and good company. You should certainly not feel out of place on this convivial and civilised vessel - unless you are under about 35 and want the type of holiday-camp-meets-Disneyland environment that most of the large cruise ships seem to offer. (I always think that the 'dinner party' test is a good one: would you want to have dinner with the people you meet? In my experience, 90% of Discovery passengers pass that test with flying colours!)
Comment by Smthers, Preston (16 Jan 12 21:29) about an ANSWER by Stanbury (15 Jan 12 23:07)
Thanks for that. I agree, the dinner party test is a good measure.
Comment by reilly, DUNDEE (10 Dec 11 13:20) about this REVIEW
Very informative review, wish we had seen it before we went as would have been less apprehensive. Still to sit down and write a review but a little clue to the overall review - we returned 15th November and are due to depart on the ship again on 18th December :)
Comment by Smith, CRAYFORD (28 Oct 11 15:56) about this REVIEW
Thank you for such a good review. We have sailed on Discovery twice, the last time in January this year on the Amazon cruise. We have booked a 3rd cruise on her for July 2012 to Iceland and can't wait to board her again as we have a soft spot for her. I am pleased to hear that she will be undergoing a refit because someone told us that due to her age, she might be taken out of service in a couple of years. Clearly that is not the case and we can look forward to sailing on her for a while yet.
Comment by Stanbury, Tunbridge Wells (24 Oct 11 11:42) about this REVIEW
I have now received via Voyages of Discovery a rather grovelling response from Monarch regarding the return flight cock-ups. It appears that the re-routing arose because of an earlier technical problem with another aircraft. Monarch admits the 'chaotic check-in procedure' at Lisbon. But we were not properly informed of any of this at the time, nor was there any real attempt to apologise or offer any remedy. I note with wry amusement that Monarch's motto is 'Fly your way. Every day.' ('Fly out of your way' would be more appropriate!) Although Monarch has offered to consider claims for 'reasonable costs' incurred as a result of the delay, I am considering whether the statutory compensation should be claimed for the delay itself - routine technical problems are not in themselves a defence to this.
Comment by O'Brien, Santa Ponsa (15 Oct 11 07:56) about this REVIEW
Couldn't agree more with the ratings. We sailed for five weeks with the Discovery earlier in the year. We do not like art auctions, casinos, piped music etc. so suited us very well. Only complaint was the lack of information for the 'independent traveller' at ports of call, as excursions seemed to take priority at 'port information sessions' .... and they were definitely excessively priced, with lots of complaints from those returning from them. Discovery have had complaints about this for many years but nothing seems to change....... is it a separate company franchise??

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