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These slow voyages appeal to independent types who don’t require constant entertainment, and the accommodation can be surprisingly comfortable

More than 3,000 passengers travel by freighter each year, and the number is growing as passengers become further disenchanted with the large resort ships that dominate the cruise industry. Traveling by freighter is also the ultimate way to travel for those seeking a totally unstructured voyage without entertainment or other diversions.

The experience has particular appeal for retirees, relocating executives, those with far-flung family connections, graduates returning home from an overseas college, or professors on sabbatical leave.  Freighters travel the busiest trade routes, and you can even take one around around the world aboard the vessels of Bank Line; the round-trip takes about four months.

There are about 250 cargo ships (freighters and container vessels) offering berths, with German operators accounting for more than half of them. True freighters – the general breakbulk carrier ships and feeder container vessels – carry up to 12 passengers; the only exception is the Royal Mail Ship RMS St. Helena, which carries up to 128 passengers, animals such as goats and sheep, and goods from the UK to the island of Ascension, While RMS St Helena carries a doctor, freighters do not, and remember that they are working vessels, not cruise ships.

Freighter schedules change constantly, depending on the whim of the owner and the cargo to be carried, whereas container ships travel on regular schedules. For the sake of simplicity, they are all termed freighters. But freighters have changed dramatically as cost management and efficiency have become vital. Container ships are operated as passenger liners used to be: running line voyages on set schedules.

Most freighter companies don’t allow children or pregnant women to travel, and you’ll need to be fully mobile – there are no elevators to connect the various decks. Because there are no medical facilities, anyone over 65 is usually required to produce a medical certificate of good health. Also, if your freighter visits a US port at any point, non-Americans will need a full US visa (freighters are not part of the visa-waiver program).

Freighter facilities
What do you get when you book a freighter voyage? You get a cabin with double or twin beds, a small writing table, and a private bathroom. You also get good company, cocktails with conversation, hearty food (you’ll eat in one seating with the ship’s officers), an interesting voyage, a lot of water, and the allure of days at sea. What don’t you get? Organized entertainment. You will certainly have time to relax and read books (some freighters have a small library), as well as observe the small crew as they help with loading, unloading, and constant upkeep, rust control and maintenance.

The accommodation will consist of a spacious, well-equipped outside-view cabin high above the water line, with a large window rather than a porthole, comfortable lounge/­ sitting area, and private facilities – far larger than most standard cruise ship cabins are.

On a per day basis, freighter travel costs between ($125–$200). Remember that voyages last much longer – typically 30 days or more – so the cost can be considerable. Most are sold out more than a year ahead – two years for some routes – and the freighter fleet has been reduced as a result of the credit crunch, so plan wisely, and remember to purchase trip cancellation insurance.

What to bring
What to take with you? Casual clothing (check with the freighter line, as some require a jacket and tie for dinner), all medications, cosmetics, and toiletry items, hairdryer, multi-voltage converter plug, washing powder, and other sundry items such as soap, sun protection, insect repellent, and small flashlight. There may be a small “shop” on board (for the crew) carrying bare essentials like toothpaste.

Bring along your medical certificate, travel insurance details, money in cash, and some extra photos of yourself in case the ship makes unannounced port stops and visas are required. The only gratuities needed are for the waiter and cabin steward, which are generally set at about $1–$2 per day, per person.

New international security regulations mean that if you book a one-way voyage, you must have all onward travel documents with you. Check with embassies and consulates of the countries you will visit. Note that freighters visit cargo ports, so private transportation such as taxis will need to be arranged in advance.

Freighters sometimes have to cancel port calls for commercial reasons at short notice. Bear this in mind if you are attracted by a particular itinerary or port. 

PASSENGER-CARRYING FREIGHTERS

These lines, among others, offer regular passenger voyages year-round: Andrew Weir Shipping, Christian F. Ahrenkiel, Alpha Ship, Bank Line, H Buss, CMA CGM The French Line, Compagnie Polynésienne de Transport Maritime (CPTM), Coopérative de Transport Maritime & Aérien (CTMA), Peter Doehle, French Asia Line, French West Indies Line, Grimaldi Lines, Hamburg-Süd, Hansa Shipmanagement, Horn Line, Interorient Navigation, Reederei F Laeisz, Leonhardt & Blumberg, MCC Passage, Mare Schifffahrtsgesellschaft, Martime Gesellschaft, Maruba Lines, Mediterranean Club Express, Melfi Lines, NSB Freighter Cruises, NSB Niederelbe Schif­fahrts­s­gesellschaft Buxtehude, Reederei Nord, OPDR, Oltmann Shipping, PZM Polish Steamship Company, Pearl String Service, Rickmers Reederei, St Helena Line, Reederei Heinrich Schepers, Reederei Karl Schlüter, H Schuldt, Swire Shipping, Transeste Shipping, Windstar Cruises, Tom Wörden, Reederei Hermann Wulff, Frachtschiff Touristik Kapitän Peter Zylmann. Note that, due to the changing economic climate, ships may be cancelled or laid-up at short notice.

Booking and Information
www.travltips.com
www.freighterworld.com
www.seejapan.co.uk/transport/sea/cargo.html
www.sydneytravel.com
www.freightertravel.co.nz

Berlitz Guide © Apa Publishing 2010